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Some of you may remember the Blube - my blue gamecube.
After an aborted attampt to do something with bamboo (the less said about that the better!), I'm going to respray another.
I'm in 2 minds about how to do it at the moment though. At first I was going to put a black stripe across the lid and down the front, and spray the front grey bit black. Maybe do one of the vents black too.
Then at the diy store I was looking at the paints, and a nice brown went pretty well with purple. Maybe just do the grey bits in brown.
Or I could go for a combination of the two.
*Ponders*
After an aborted attampt to do something with bamboo (the less said about that the better!), I'm going to respray another.
I'm in 2 minds about how to do it at the moment though. At first I was going to put a black stripe across the lid and down the front, and spray the front grey bit black. Maybe do one of the vents black too.
Then at the diy store I was looking at the paints, and a nice brown went pretty well with purple. Maybe just do the grey bits in brown.
Or I could go for a combination of the two.
*Ponders*
Page:
Some of you may remember the Blube - my blue gamecube.
After an aborted attampt to do something with bamboo (the less said about that the better!), I'm going to respray another.
I'm in 2 minds about how to do it at the moment though. At first I was going to put a black stripe across the lid and down the front, and spray the front grey bit black. Maybe do one of the vents black too.
Then at the diy store I was looking at the paints, and a nice brown went pretty well with purple. Maybe just do the grey bits in brown.
Or I could go for a combination of the two.
*Ponders*
After an aborted attampt to do something with bamboo (the less said about that the better!), I'm going to respray another.
I'm in 2 minds about how to do it at the moment though. At first I was going to put a black stripe across the lid and down the front, and spray the front grey bit black. Maybe do one of the vents black too.
Then at the diy store I was looking at the paints, and a nice brown went pretty well with purple. Maybe just do the grey bits in brown.
Or I could go for a combination of the two.
*Ponders*
An old guide I wrote after spraying my first cube, for Tommmmmmmmm:
-------
Once you have the special screwdriver bit (try lik-sang) and a set of small philips head screwdrivers (the + ones) for the bits inside, you're ready to take her apart.
It doesn't get that tricky, considering it’s expensive electronics, but you do have to keep everything in order so you know how to put it back together. Pay careful attention to how you take it apart and reassembly should be fine for a semi-competent alert amateur.
To get inside, you take off the top half of the case, then rather than let you take off the bottom easily, you have to separate component sections:
-Disk spinner and reader. No real problem.
-Slots directly into another bit below it. The fan comes out so that's only connected by wires, then another chunk unscrews, below it is...
-The heat sink, like what you get on pc processors but wider, this has to be removed to take out the last piece of...
-Circuit boards and stuff.
When they're all out, you have the base of the cube, and you've separated all the plastic bits from the computery bits.
If you plan on respraying the grey bit with the controller ports you'll be venturing somewhere i didn't, but the same principles apply, note what you do to disassemble, so you know how to reassemble.
The lid's opening mechanism deserves a comment - pay very close attention as you undo it all, it's probably the most complicated thing to reassemble. Just quite a few bits of plastic involved.
It isn't that hard, provided you PAY ATTENTION TO EVERYTHING AS YOU TAKE IT APART!
Note also: The mesh that covers the air vents and the big black plastic circle on the lid all come out without screwdrivers and stuff, the black circle on the lid simply unclips from inside.
When respraying, you’ll probably want to use both the desired colour and a clear protective top-coat. I used plastikote brand aerosols, which have good heat resistance. I suggest you go for diy store stuff, rather than art store stuff.
Doubt you’ll need an undercoat (you may want to consider it if you’re using a very light colour, but probably unnecessary even then), just give it a few coats if needs be.
When spraying, don’t get too close, and keep moving over different areas, this’ll help ensure you get a nice even coat.
With the protective top-coat several light coats are better than one heavy one, again it’s about thorough coverage and an even coat.
For the air vents, you may want to pick up the cube from the inside (with a glove on) to let you get the right angles to spray into those holes.
The black rubber feet don’t come out, at least they didn’t for me, for both these and the grey ATi badge on the front you need to choose whether to cover them with masking tape or spray over them.
You also have to decide this for the warning and information labels (eg, the lazer warning label on the inside of the lid). If you’re careful, you can cover them with masking tape, trim it to the right shape with a scalpel and when you remove it you’ll have a nice finish. You may, of course, prefer to spray straight over, but don’t come running to me when you’re blinded by looking into the cube’s lazer beam because you didn’t see the warning you painted over…
(Personally, I used masking tape over the badge, feet and labels. Only the badge didn’t come out of it as well as I’d hoped, it can be a bit of a lottery. I don’t really mind though, kind of adds character, a little paint on the edges of it. Still, it’s up to you to decide.
One more warning: Sometimes the ‘Open’ button doesn’t pop up again after you press it (so the lid doesn’t lock in place when you put it down. Not a problem, tap it a couple of times and it comes back up fine.
Just thought you should know it can happen. (A better top coat or smoother finish may eliminate the problem, but I don’t care enough to do anything about it. Anyway, again, it adds character. :^) )
So if you do decide to go ahead, good luck with it.
And whatever you do, PAY ATTENTION AS YOU TAKE IT APART SO YOU KNOW HOW TO PUT IT BACK TOGETHER!
:^)
-------
Once you have the special screwdriver bit (try lik-sang) and a set of small philips head screwdrivers (the + ones) for the bits inside, you're ready to take her apart.
It doesn't get that tricky, considering it’s expensive electronics, but you do have to keep everything in order so you know how to put it back together. Pay careful attention to how you take it apart and reassembly should be fine for a semi-competent alert amateur.
To get inside, you take off the top half of the case, then rather than let you take off the bottom easily, you have to separate component sections:
-Disk spinner and reader. No real problem.
-Slots directly into another bit below it. The fan comes out so that's only connected by wires, then another chunk unscrews, below it is...
-The heat sink, like what you get on pc processors but wider, this has to be removed to take out the last piece of...
-Circuit boards and stuff.
When they're all out, you have the base of the cube, and you've separated all the plastic bits from the computery bits.
If you plan on respraying the grey bit with the controller ports you'll be venturing somewhere i didn't, but the same principles apply, note what you do to disassemble, so you know how to reassemble.
The lid's opening mechanism deserves a comment - pay very close attention as you undo it all, it's probably the most complicated thing to reassemble. Just quite a few bits of plastic involved.
It isn't that hard, provided you PAY ATTENTION TO EVERYTHING AS YOU TAKE IT APART!
Note also: The mesh that covers the air vents and the big black plastic circle on the lid all come out without screwdrivers and stuff, the black circle on the lid simply unclips from inside.
When respraying, you’ll probably want to use both the desired colour and a clear protective top-coat. I used plastikote brand aerosols, which have good heat resistance. I suggest you go for diy store stuff, rather than art store stuff.
Doubt you’ll need an undercoat (you may want to consider it if you’re using a very light colour, but probably unnecessary even then), just give it a few coats if needs be.
When spraying, don’t get too close, and keep moving over different areas, this’ll help ensure you get a nice even coat.
With the protective top-coat several light coats are better than one heavy one, again it’s about thorough coverage and an even coat.
For the air vents, you may want to pick up the cube from the inside (with a glove on) to let you get the right angles to spray into those holes.
The black rubber feet don’t come out, at least they didn’t for me, for both these and the grey ATi badge on the front you need to choose whether to cover them with masking tape or spray over them.
You also have to decide this for the warning and information labels (eg, the lazer warning label on the inside of the lid). If you’re careful, you can cover them with masking tape, trim it to the right shape with a scalpel and when you remove it you’ll have a nice finish. You may, of course, prefer to spray straight over, but don’t come running to me when you’re blinded by looking into the cube’s lazer beam because you didn’t see the warning you painted over…
(Personally, I used masking tape over the badge, feet and labels. Only the badge didn’t come out of it as well as I’d hoped, it can be a bit of a lottery. I don’t really mind though, kind of adds character, a little paint on the edges of it. Still, it’s up to you to decide.
One more warning: Sometimes the ‘Open’ button doesn’t pop up again after you press it (so the lid doesn’t lock in place when you put it down. Not a problem, tap it a couple of times and it comes back up fine.
Just thought you should know it can happen. (A better top coat or smoother finish may eliminate the problem, but I don’t care enough to do anything about it. Anyway, again, it adds character. :^) )
So if you do decide to go ahead, good luck with it.
And whatever you do, PAY ATTENTION AS YOU TAKE IT APART SO YOU KNOW HOW TO PUT IT BACK TOGETHER!
:^)
How about you leave it in its original glory.
Mumbai Duck wrote:
> An old guide I wrote after spraying my first cube, for Tommmmmmmmm:
Cheers
> An old guide I wrote after spraying my first cube, for Tommmmmmmmm:
Cheers
Hoju wrote:
> How about you leave it in its original glory.
Its original glory doesn't involve me doing anything entertaining or interesting.
Besides, it's lame and purple. But mostly lame.
It could be so much more. The Blube owns.
> How about you leave it in its original glory.
Its original glory doesn't involve me doing anything entertaining or interesting.
Besides, it's lame and purple. But mostly lame.
It could be so much more. The Blube owns.
Mumbai Duck wrote:
> The Blube owns.
That it does. That it does. Trying to think what colors to paint mine, now i've got the time to be bothered doing something like this...
> The Blube owns.
That it does. That it does. Trying to think what colors to paint mine, now i've got the time to be bothered doing something like this...
I think I have a design now. Might take a few days to do though, as I'll have to fit it around work and uni.
Or I could do something with stencils... But that's asking for trouble!
Or I could do something with stencils... But that's asking for trouble!
A quick google image search brings up some more interesting mods.
[URL]http://www.pheatonforums.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=4281&st=0[/URL]
[URL]http://www.mario-kart.net/challenge/makingofmkm.html[/URL]
[URL]http://www.pheatonforums.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=4281&st=0[/URL]
[URL]http://www.mario-kart.net/challenge/makingofmkm.html[/URL]
Intersting, I think there's a challenge to rise to :^)
The ViperGC mod sounds good too. I'll have to see about its technical details and whether it likes region 2 PAL...
The ViperGC mod sounds good too. I'll have to see about its technical details and whether it likes region 2 PAL...
This is still the winner:
[URL]http://www.random6.com/nec/[/URL]
[URL]http://www.random6.com/nec/[/URL]
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