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If you're planning on respraying your cube, you may want some advice from someone who's been there. So here we go...
Once you have the special screwdriver bit (try lik-sang) and a set of small philips head screwdrivers (the + ones) for the bits inside, you're ready to take her apart.
It doesn't get that tricky, considering it’s expensive electronics, but you do have to keep everything in order so you know how to put it back together. Pay careful attention to how you take it apart and reassembly should be fine for a semi-competent alert amateur.
To get inside, you take off the top half of the case, then rather than let you take off the bottom easily, you have to separate component sections:
-Disk spinner and reader. No real problem.
-Slots directly into another bit below it. The fan comes out so that's only connected by wires, then another chunk unscrews, below it is...
-The heat sink, like what you get on pc processors but bigger, this has to be removed to take out the last piece of...
-Circuit boards and stuff.
When they're all out, you have the base of the cube, and you've separated all the plastic bits from the computery bits.
If you plan on respraying the grey bit with the controller ports you'll be venturing somewhere i didn't, but the same principles apply, note what you do to disassemble, so you know how to reassemble.
The lid's opening mechanism deserves a comment - pay very close attention as you undo it all, it's probably the most complicated thing to reassemble. Just quite a few bits of plastic involved.
It isn't that hard, provided you PAY ATTENTION TO EVERYTHING AS YOU TAKE IT APART!
Note also: The mesh that covers the air vents and the big black plastic circle on the lid all come out without screwdrivers and stuff, the black circle simply unclips from inside.
When respraying, you’ll probably want to use both the desired colour and a clear protective top-coat. I used plastikote brand aerosols, which have good heat resistance. I suggest you go for diy store stuff, rather than art store stuff.
Doubt you’ll need an undercoat (you may want to consider it if you’re using a very light colour, but probably unnecessary even then), just give it a few coats if needs be.
When spraying, don’t get too close, and keep moving over different areas, this’ll help ensure you get a nice even coat.
With the protective top-coat several light coats are better than one heavy one, again it’s about thorough coverage and an even coat.
For the air vents, you may want to pick up the cube from the inside (with a glove on) to let you get the right angles to spray into those holes.
The black rubber feet don’t come out, at least they didn’t for me, for both these and the grey ATi badge on the front you need to chose whether to cover with masking tape or spray straight over.
You also have to decide this for the warning and information labels (eg, the lazer warning label on the inside of the lid). If you’re careful, you can cover them with masking tape, trim it to the right shape with a scalpel and when you remove it you’ll have a nice finish. You may, of course, prefer to spray straight over, but don’t come running to me when you’re blinded by looking into the cube’s lazer beam because you didn’t see the warning you painted over…
(Personally, I used masking tape over the badge, feet and labels. Only the badge didn’t come out of it as well as I’d hoped, it can be a bit of a lottery. I don’t really mind though, kind of adds character, a little paint on the edges of it. Still, it’s up to you to decide.
One more warning: The opening mechanism is still a little ‘sticky’ – sometimes you press the button and the lid doesn’t open. No problem, hold it down and gently press down on the far side of the lid (on the other side of the hinge). Sometimes the button doesn’t pop up again (so the lid doesn’t lock in place when you put it down. Again, no problem, tap it a couple of times and it comes back up fine.
Just thought you should know it can happen. (A better top coat or smoother finish may eliminate the problem, but I don’t care enough to do anything about it. Anyway, again, it adds character. :^) )
So if you do decide to go ahead, good luck with it.
If you have questions or want to discuss it further ask here or try to catch me on msn – [email protected]
And whatever you do, PAY ATTENTION AS YOU TAKE IT APART SO YOU KNOW HOW TO PUT IT BACK TOGETHER!
:^)
Once you have the special screwdriver bit (try lik-sang) and a set of small philips head screwdrivers (the + ones) for the bits inside, you're ready to take her apart.
It doesn't get that tricky, considering it’s expensive electronics, but you do have to keep everything in order so you know how to put it back together. Pay careful attention to how you take it apart and reassembly should be fine for a semi-competent alert amateur.
To get inside, you take off the top half of the case, then rather than let you take off the bottom easily, you have to separate component sections:
-Disk spinner and reader. No real problem.
-Slots directly into another bit below it. The fan comes out so that's only connected by wires, then another chunk unscrews, below it is...
-The heat sink, like what you get on pc processors but bigger, this has to be removed to take out the last piece of...
-Circuit boards and stuff.
When they're all out, you have the base of the cube, and you've separated all the plastic bits from the computery bits.
If you plan on respraying the grey bit with the controller ports you'll be venturing somewhere i didn't, but the same principles apply, note what you do to disassemble, so you know how to reassemble.
The lid's opening mechanism deserves a comment - pay very close attention as you undo it all, it's probably the most complicated thing to reassemble. Just quite a few bits of plastic involved.
It isn't that hard, provided you PAY ATTENTION TO EVERYTHING AS YOU TAKE IT APART!
Note also: The mesh that covers the air vents and the big black plastic circle on the lid all come out without screwdrivers and stuff, the black circle simply unclips from inside.
When respraying, you’ll probably want to use both the desired colour and a clear protective top-coat. I used plastikote brand aerosols, which have good heat resistance. I suggest you go for diy store stuff, rather than art store stuff.
Doubt you’ll need an undercoat (you may want to consider it if you’re using a very light colour, but probably unnecessary even then), just give it a few coats if needs be.
When spraying, don’t get too close, and keep moving over different areas, this’ll help ensure you get a nice even coat.
With the protective top-coat several light coats are better than one heavy one, again it’s about thorough coverage and an even coat.
For the air vents, you may want to pick up the cube from the inside (with a glove on) to let you get the right angles to spray into those holes.
The black rubber feet don’t come out, at least they didn’t for me, for both these and the grey ATi badge on the front you need to chose whether to cover with masking tape or spray straight over.
You also have to decide this for the warning and information labels (eg, the lazer warning label on the inside of the lid). If you’re careful, you can cover them with masking tape, trim it to the right shape with a scalpel and when you remove it you’ll have a nice finish. You may, of course, prefer to spray straight over, but don’t come running to me when you’re blinded by looking into the cube’s lazer beam because you didn’t see the warning you painted over…
(Personally, I used masking tape over the badge, feet and labels. Only the badge didn’t come out of it as well as I’d hoped, it can be a bit of a lottery. I don’t really mind though, kind of adds character, a little paint on the edges of it. Still, it’s up to you to decide.
One more warning: The opening mechanism is still a little ‘sticky’ – sometimes you press the button and the lid doesn’t open. No problem, hold it down and gently press down on the far side of the lid (on the other side of the hinge). Sometimes the button doesn’t pop up again (so the lid doesn’t lock in place when you put it down. Again, no problem, tap it a couple of times and it comes back up fine.
Just thought you should know it can happen. (A better top coat or smoother finish may eliminate the problem, but I don’t care enough to do anything about it. Anyway, again, it adds character. :^) )
So if you do decide to go ahead, good luck with it.
If you have questions or want to discuss it further ask here or try to catch me on msn – [email protected]
And whatever you do, PAY ATTENTION AS YOU TAKE IT APART SO YOU KNOW HOW TO PUT IT BACK TOGETHER!
:^)
I would just like a Black one!
Maybe not essential as such, but it'll protect the paint from scratching, chipping, heat damage (though with a good paint it shouldn't be a problem) and give an all-round better quality finish.
Really if you're going to do it properly you need a top-coat. Doesn't cost much, won't need that much drying time, just another coat of aerolsol paint to make sure you do a propper job of it.
Personally, i'd consider it not essential, but definitely worth doing.
Really if you're going to do it properly you need a top-coat. Doesn't cost much, won't need that much drying time, just another coat of aerolsol paint to make sure you do a propper job of it.
Personally, i'd consider it not essential, but definitely worth doing.
Great, i thought i may need an undercoat. I dont think i'll bother. But im guessing the top coat is essential?
Dr Duck wrote:
> philips head screwdrivers
Yay!
My head screwdrivers!
> philips head screwdrivers
Yay!
My head screwdrivers!
If you're planning on respraying your cube, you may want some advice from someone who's been there. So here we go...
Once you have the special screwdriver bit (try lik-sang) and a set of small philips head screwdrivers (the + ones) for the bits inside, you're ready to take her apart.
It doesn't get that tricky, considering it’s expensive electronics, but you do have to keep everything in order so you know how to put it back together. Pay careful attention to how you take it apart and reassembly should be fine for a semi-competent alert amateur.
To get inside, you take off the top half of the case, then rather than let you take off the bottom easily, you have to separate component sections:
-Disk spinner and reader. No real problem.
-Slots directly into another bit below it. The fan comes out so that's only connected by wires, then another chunk unscrews, below it is...
-The heat sink, like what you get on pc processors but bigger, this has to be removed to take out the last piece of...
-Circuit boards and stuff.
When they're all out, you have the base of the cube, and you've separated all the plastic bits from the computery bits.
If you plan on respraying the grey bit with the controller ports you'll be venturing somewhere i didn't, but the same principles apply, note what you do to disassemble, so you know how to reassemble.
The lid's opening mechanism deserves a comment - pay very close attention as you undo it all, it's probably the most complicated thing to reassemble. Just quite a few bits of plastic involved.
It isn't that hard, provided you PAY ATTENTION TO EVERYTHING AS YOU TAKE IT APART!
Note also: The mesh that covers the air vents and the big black plastic circle on the lid all come out without screwdrivers and stuff, the black circle simply unclips from inside.
When respraying, you’ll probably want to use both the desired colour and a clear protective top-coat. I used plastikote brand aerosols, which have good heat resistance. I suggest you go for diy store stuff, rather than art store stuff.
Doubt you’ll need an undercoat (you may want to consider it if you’re using a very light colour, but probably unnecessary even then), just give it a few coats if needs be.
When spraying, don’t get too close, and keep moving over different areas, this’ll help ensure you get a nice even coat.
With the protective top-coat several light coats are better than one heavy one, again it’s about thorough coverage and an even coat.
For the air vents, you may want to pick up the cube from the inside (with a glove on) to let you get the right angles to spray into those holes.
The black rubber feet don’t come out, at least they didn’t for me, for both these and the grey ATi badge on the front you need to chose whether to cover with masking tape or spray straight over.
You also have to decide this for the warning and information labels (eg, the lazer warning label on the inside of the lid). If you’re careful, you can cover them with masking tape, trim it to the right shape with a scalpel and when you remove it you’ll have a nice finish. You may, of course, prefer to spray straight over, but don’t come running to me when you’re blinded by looking into the cube’s lazer beam because you didn’t see the warning you painted over…
(Personally, I used masking tape over the badge, feet and labels. Only the badge didn’t come out of it as well as I’d hoped, it can be a bit of a lottery. I don’t really mind though, kind of adds character, a little paint on the edges of it. Still, it’s up to you to decide.
One more warning: The opening mechanism is still a little ‘sticky’ – sometimes you press the button and the lid doesn’t open. No problem, hold it down and gently press down on the far side of the lid (on the other side of the hinge). Sometimes the button doesn’t pop up again (so the lid doesn’t lock in place when you put it down. Again, no problem, tap it a couple of times and it comes back up fine.
Just thought you should know it can happen. (A better top coat or smoother finish may eliminate the problem, but I don’t care enough to do anything about it. Anyway, again, it adds character. :^) )
So if you do decide to go ahead, good luck with it.
If you have questions or want to discuss it further ask here or try to catch me on msn – [email protected]
And whatever you do, PAY ATTENTION AS YOU TAKE IT APART SO YOU KNOW HOW TO PUT IT BACK TOGETHER!
:^)
Once you have the special screwdriver bit (try lik-sang) and a set of small philips head screwdrivers (the + ones) for the bits inside, you're ready to take her apart.
It doesn't get that tricky, considering it’s expensive electronics, but you do have to keep everything in order so you know how to put it back together. Pay careful attention to how you take it apart and reassembly should be fine for a semi-competent alert amateur.
To get inside, you take off the top half of the case, then rather than let you take off the bottom easily, you have to separate component sections:
-Disk spinner and reader. No real problem.
-Slots directly into another bit below it. The fan comes out so that's only connected by wires, then another chunk unscrews, below it is...
-The heat sink, like what you get on pc processors but bigger, this has to be removed to take out the last piece of...
-Circuit boards and stuff.
When they're all out, you have the base of the cube, and you've separated all the plastic bits from the computery bits.
If you plan on respraying the grey bit with the controller ports you'll be venturing somewhere i didn't, but the same principles apply, note what you do to disassemble, so you know how to reassemble.
The lid's opening mechanism deserves a comment - pay very close attention as you undo it all, it's probably the most complicated thing to reassemble. Just quite a few bits of plastic involved.
It isn't that hard, provided you PAY ATTENTION TO EVERYTHING AS YOU TAKE IT APART!
Note also: The mesh that covers the air vents and the big black plastic circle on the lid all come out without screwdrivers and stuff, the black circle simply unclips from inside.
When respraying, you’ll probably want to use both the desired colour and a clear protective top-coat. I used plastikote brand aerosols, which have good heat resistance. I suggest you go for diy store stuff, rather than art store stuff.
Doubt you’ll need an undercoat (you may want to consider it if you’re using a very light colour, but probably unnecessary even then), just give it a few coats if needs be.
When spraying, don’t get too close, and keep moving over different areas, this’ll help ensure you get a nice even coat.
With the protective top-coat several light coats are better than one heavy one, again it’s about thorough coverage and an even coat.
For the air vents, you may want to pick up the cube from the inside (with a glove on) to let you get the right angles to spray into those holes.
The black rubber feet don’t come out, at least they didn’t for me, for both these and the grey ATi badge on the front you need to chose whether to cover with masking tape or spray straight over.
You also have to decide this for the warning and information labels (eg, the lazer warning label on the inside of the lid). If you’re careful, you can cover them with masking tape, trim it to the right shape with a scalpel and when you remove it you’ll have a nice finish. You may, of course, prefer to spray straight over, but don’t come running to me when you’re blinded by looking into the cube’s lazer beam because you didn’t see the warning you painted over…
(Personally, I used masking tape over the badge, feet and labels. Only the badge didn’t come out of it as well as I’d hoped, it can be a bit of a lottery. I don’t really mind though, kind of adds character, a little paint on the edges of it. Still, it’s up to you to decide.
One more warning: The opening mechanism is still a little ‘sticky’ – sometimes you press the button and the lid doesn’t open. No problem, hold it down and gently press down on the far side of the lid (on the other side of the hinge). Sometimes the button doesn’t pop up again (so the lid doesn’t lock in place when you put it down. Again, no problem, tap it a couple of times and it comes back up fine.
Just thought you should know it can happen. (A better top coat or smoother finish may eliminate the problem, but I don’t care enough to do anything about it. Anyway, again, it adds character. :^) )
So if you do decide to go ahead, good luck with it.
If you have questions or want to discuss it further ask here or try to catch me on msn – [email protected]
And whatever you do, PAY ATTENTION AS YOU TAKE IT APART SO YOU KNOW HOW TO PUT IT BACK TOGETHER!
:^)