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Well this guide sure has taken its sweet time, however now that I have the laptop completed I shall now give a bit of a rundown on how to build your very own custom white book. The first thing that you need to decide is what barebones white book you want, in my case I chose the Asus M3Np.
I done this for a few reasons, I got it relatively cheap from eBay and also because I could actually get it shipped to this country (again because I used an eBay seller). The advantage with this notebook is that it can take the Dothan processors, a feature that I was keen to utilize more detailed specs can be found here
[URL]http://store.agearnotebooks.com/asusm3nspec.html[/URL]
However Asus do a wide variety of white books, the one that you go for is pretty much up to you, if you want to do some serious gaming you should probably go for one that has a mobility radeon chipset, if your gaming will consist of nothing much more testing that a few games of warcraft however a shared 64mb option should suffice. The M3 and M5 models are also the slimmest models, so are handy if your notebook really does have to be portable.
Now we have to kit out the notebook with the necessities to make it run. You will have to source a CPU, Hard Drive, RAM, Optical drive and if applicable a wireless card. The optical drives are a bit hard to get hold of because they are a little specialized for that particular laptop model; as such I just bought the laptop and optical drive together.
The RAM for my particular laptop is a 200 pin pc2700 SODIMM module, I decided to get 1GB of RAM for my laptop, especially as I had the onboard graphics to think about. So I started searching around various sites to find the best deal I could, I decided to go with 2 sticks of 512mb instead of a 1gb module because they are ridiculously expensive. In the end my search took me to [URL]www.stuff-uk.net[/URL] who have the Kingston branded modules I was looking for. I got both sticks for an incredibly reasonable £137.02 and that’s including VAT and postage.
To fit the first stick of RAM you only need to flip the laptop over and unscrew the right hand panel, the RAM slot is just underneath the CPU socket. The second slot is a little more tricky to get to, its under the keyboard. To get under the keyboard you have to take a flathead screwdriver and get it into the hollowed part of the black panel just above the keyboard,
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/open_keyboard.jpg[/URL] after you lift this up slightly you can then proceed to slide the top part to the left and then pull it free
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/keyboard_2.jpg[/URL] [URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/keyboard.jpg[/URL] After you’ve done that now you need to unscrew the two screws at the top of the keyboard and then slide the whole keyboard towards the screen. This will allow you to lift it free, take care not to pull the keyboard too far, you don’t want the ribbon cable coming out.
Now that you’ve done this you will see a metal panel marked DDR on the left hand side, if you unscrew the two screws which hold the plate in place you can lift this panel free and expose the last memory slot.
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/ddr.jpg[/URL] After you’ve stuck the memory in
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/ram_shot.jpg[/URL] and then pushed it back till the catches lock you can close this panel again, getting the screws in can be a bit tricky if your screwdriver isn’t magnetized, so I stuck the head of the screw to a bit of blu-tac and then gave it a twist in the hole to get it in place.
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/blutac.jpg[/URL]
Now you can install the wireless adaptor if you decided to get one, simply stick it in the slot in the same way you inserted the RAM and then connect up the two wires (white goes to main, black to aux), it is important not to forget to connect the wires, otherwise your 100ft range will be reduce to about 5ft. With that all done you can now put the keyboard back and close it all up again.
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/prowireless.jpg[/URL]
Now you can install the hard drive, I was going to go with the Hitachi Travelstar 7k60 however I decided that the premium you have to pay on a drive like this wasn’t really worth the small performance gain over a normal 5400RPM drive, so instead I just decided to get an 80gb Hitachi Travelstar with 5400RPM spin speed and an 8MB cache. Buying this drive from a normal retailer will probably make your eyes water and your wallet groan, so once again I used good old ebay to get the drive at a reasonable price.
Again it’s up to you what drive you decide to go with, if you will rarely have very many files on your laptop you would save a bit of cash by opting for a smaller drive. But now we come to fitting it, this is a fairly straightforward part to fit, first you need to mount the drive in the supplied caddy and then you have to attach the IDE adaptor so that the 44 pins will fit into the array
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/hd_adaptor.jpg[/URL] When you have the hard drive secured
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/in_caddy.jpg[/URL] you can then put the rather snazzy looking cover on so that it doesn’t stand out like a sore thumb
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/hd_cover.jpg[/URL]
Now we need to fit the CPU, I ended up getting the Pentium m 735 from ebuyer with the idea in mind of overclocking it to the 755 speeds, however overclocking a laptop is a pain in the ass, but more on that later. On this laptop the CPU socket is on the underside, so unscrew the panel and then unscrew the heatpipe, here I had to remove the fan to get the heatpipe free. Now scrape away the thermal pad that comes on the heatpipe and apply arctic silver to the core, put the CPU in the slot making sure the corner with the golden triangle goes to the corner where one pin is missing on the socket and then tighten the screw on the socket by turning it around 180° clockwise then replace the heatpipe and screw in the four screws in an X fashion
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/cpu_shot.jpg[/URL] Fit your other stick of Ram at the same time if applicable.
Now just replace the cover and screw it on, charge up the battery (will take about 3-4 hours) and then power it up. If all goes well you should see the Pentium m splash screen
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/it_works.jpg[/URL] and then a prompt to organize boot order etc…
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/install_os.jpg[/URL] If however the laptop powers up for a few seconds, clicks and then turns off, then you haven’t securely tightened the locking screw on the CPU socket.
That’s pretty much it now, I haven’t really scratched the surface on overclocking the laptop yet because I’m not entirely sure how to do it yet, I think I will have to get the PLL number and use CPU COOL to modify it, but that is for another day at the moment.
Good luck, I’ve tried to be as detailed as possible, but if there is anything you don’t understand just ask.
I done this for a few reasons, I got it relatively cheap from eBay and also because I could actually get it shipped to this country (again because I used an eBay seller). The advantage with this notebook is that it can take the Dothan processors, a feature that I was keen to utilize more detailed specs can be found here
[URL]http://store.agearnotebooks.com/asusm3nspec.html[/URL]
However Asus do a wide variety of white books, the one that you go for is pretty much up to you, if you want to do some serious gaming you should probably go for one that has a mobility radeon chipset, if your gaming will consist of nothing much more testing that a few games of warcraft however a shared 64mb option should suffice. The M3 and M5 models are also the slimmest models, so are handy if your notebook really does have to be portable.
Now we have to kit out the notebook with the necessities to make it run. You will have to source a CPU, Hard Drive, RAM, Optical drive and if applicable a wireless card. The optical drives are a bit hard to get hold of because they are a little specialized for that particular laptop model; as such I just bought the laptop and optical drive together.
The RAM for my particular laptop is a 200 pin pc2700 SODIMM module, I decided to get 1GB of RAM for my laptop, especially as I had the onboard graphics to think about. So I started searching around various sites to find the best deal I could, I decided to go with 2 sticks of 512mb instead of a 1gb module because they are ridiculously expensive. In the end my search took me to [URL]www.stuff-uk.net[/URL] who have the Kingston branded modules I was looking for. I got both sticks for an incredibly reasonable £137.02 and that’s including VAT and postage.
To fit the first stick of RAM you only need to flip the laptop over and unscrew the right hand panel, the RAM slot is just underneath the CPU socket. The second slot is a little more tricky to get to, its under the keyboard. To get under the keyboard you have to take a flathead screwdriver and get it into the hollowed part of the black panel just above the keyboard,
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/open_keyboard.jpg[/URL] after you lift this up slightly you can then proceed to slide the top part to the left and then pull it free
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/keyboard_2.jpg[/URL] [URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/keyboard.jpg[/URL] After you’ve done that now you need to unscrew the two screws at the top of the keyboard and then slide the whole keyboard towards the screen. This will allow you to lift it free, take care not to pull the keyboard too far, you don’t want the ribbon cable coming out.
Now that you’ve done this you will see a metal panel marked DDR on the left hand side, if you unscrew the two screws which hold the plate in place you can lift this panel free and expose the last memory slot.
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/ddr.jpg[/URL] After you’ve stuck the memory in
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/ram_shot.jpg[/URL] and then pushed it back till the catches lock you can close this panel again, getting the screws in can be a bit tricky if your screwdriver isn’t magnetized, so I stuck the head of the screw to a bit of blu-tac and then gave it a twist in the hole to get it in place.
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/blutac.jpg[/URL]
Now you can install the wireless adaptor if you decided to get one, simply stick it in the slot in the same way you inserted the RAM and then connect up the two wires (white goes to main, black to aux), it is important not to forget to connect the wires, otherwise your 100ft range will be reduce to about 5ft. With that all done you can now put the keyboard back and close it all up again.
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/prowireless.jpg[/URL]
Now you can install the hard drive, I was going to go with the Hitachi Travelstar 7k60 however I decided that the premium you have to pay on a drive like this wasn’t really worth the small performance gain over a normal 5400RPM drive, so instead I just decided to get an 80gb Hitachi Travelstar with 5400RPM spin speed and an 8MB cache. Buying this drive from a normal retailer will probably make your eyes water and your wallet groan, so once again I used good old ebay to get the drive at a reasonable price.
Again it’s up to you what drive you decide to go with, if you will rarely have very many files on your laptop you would save a bit of cash by opting for a smaller drive. But now we come to fitting it, this is a fairly straightforward part to fit, first you need to mount the drive in the supplied caddy and then you have to attach the IDE adaptor so that the 44 pins will fit into the array
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/hd_adaptor.jpg[/URL] When you have the hard drive secured
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/in_caddy.jpg[/URL] you can then put the rather snazzy looking cover on so that it doesn’t stand out like a sore thumb
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/hd_cover.jpg[/URL]
Now we need to fit the CPU, I ended up getting the Pentium m 735 from ebuyer with the idea in mind of overclocking it to the 755 speeds, however overclocking a laptop is a pain in the ass, but more on that later. On this laptop the CPU socket is on the underside, so unscrew the panel and then unscrew the heatpipe, here I had to remove the fan to get the heatpipe free. Now scrape away the thermal pad that comes on the heatpipe and apply arctic silver to the core, put the CPU in the slot making sure the corner with the golden triangle goes to the corner where one pin is missing on the socket and then tighten the screw on the socket by turning it around 180° clockwise then replace the heatpipe and screw in the four screws in an X fashion
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/cpu_shot.jpg[/URL] Fit your other stick of Ram at the same time if applicable.
Now just replace the cover and screw it on, charge up the battery (will take about 3-4 hours) and then power it up. If all goes well you should see the Pentium m splash screen
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/it_works.jpg[/URL] and then a prompt to organize boot order etc…
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/install_os.jpg[/URL] If however the laptop powers up for a few seconds, clicks and then turns off, then you haven’t securely tightened the locking screw on the CPU socket.
That’s pretty much it now, I haven’t really scratched the surface on overclocking the laptop yet because I’m not entirely sure how to do it yet, I think I will have to get the PLL number and use CPU COOL to modify it, but that is for another day at the moment.
Good luck, I’ve tried to be as detailed as possible, but if there is anything you don’t understand just ask.
Altogether it cost £1042, i bought the barebones kit from "mtngames", Hard drive from "ukkev21" and the pro wireless from "hammer_marketing". Its definitely a fun way to get a laptop, it also allows you a bit more freedom of choice as well as being a bit cheaper than just going with what a company is offering.
It took me ages to source all the parts though, i could have got the CPU cheaper from America, but in the end i just couldnt be bothered with the hassle.
It took me ages to source all the parts though, i could have got the CPU cheaper from America, but in the end i just couldnt be bothered with the hassle.
Cool, cheers for posting that. How much did it cost altogether? And who did you buy from on ebay? I've got a really nice Vaio laptop that I inherited from my dad: very light and compact - but only a PII with 64MB of RAM. It's great for web browsing and word processing but as soon as I do a bit of Java it grinds to a halt so I wouldn't mind an upgrade sometime in the future, and this looks a fun way to do it.
omg wtf lol wrote:
> Show us a pic of the finished thing ;)
Look here [URL]http://store.agearnotebooks.com/asusm3nphoto.html[/URL] better pictures than i could ever get with this camera.
> Show us a pic of the finished thing ;)
Look here [URL]http://store.agearnotebooks.com/asusm3nphoto.html[/URL] better pictures than i could ever get with this camera.
Pfft, that review condensed:
Paper, stapler, bit of card for front and back cover. Staple paper together.
There, a notebook.
Paper, stapler, bit of card for front and back cover. Staple paper together.
There, a notebook.
Show us a pic of the finished thing ;)
Well this guide sure has taken its sweet time, however now that I have the laptop completed I shall now give a bit of a rundown on how to build your very own custom white book. The first thing that you need to decide is what barebones white book you want, in my case I chose the Asus M3Np.
I done this for a few reasons, I got it relatively cheap from eBay and also because I could actually get it shipped to this country (again because I used an eBay seller). The advantage with this notebook is that it can take the Dothan processors, a feature that I was keen to utilize more detailed specs can be found here
[URL]http://store.agearnotebooks.com/asusm3nspec.html[/URL]
However Asus do a wide variety of white books, the one that you go for is pretty much up to you, if you want to do some serious gaming you should probably go for one that has a mobility radeon chipset, if your gaming will consist of nothing much more testing that a few games of warcraft however a shared 64mb option should suffice. The M3 and M5 models are also the slimmest models, so are handy if your notebook really does have to be portable.
Now we have to kit out the notebook with the necessities to make it run. You will have to source a CPU, Hard Drive, RAM, Optical drive and if applicable a wireless card. The optical drives are a bit hard to get hold of because they are a little specialized for that particular laptop model; as such I just bought the laptop and optical drive together.
The RAM for my particular laptop is a 200 pin pc2700 SODIMM module, I decided to get 1GB of RAM for my laptop, especially as I had the onboard graphics to think about. So I started searching around various sites to find the best deal I could, I decided to go with 2 sticks of 512mb instead of a 1gb module because they are ridiculously expensive. In the end my search took me to [URL]www.stuff-uk.net[/URL] who have the Kingston branded modules I was looking for. I got both sticks for an incredibly reasonable £137.02 and that’s including VAT and postage.
To fit the first stick of RAM you only need to flip the laptop over and unscrew the right hand panel, the RAM slot is just underneath the CPU socket. The second slot is a little more tricky to get to, its under the keyboard. To get under the keyboard you have to take a flathead screwdriver and get it into the hollowed part of the black panel just above the keyboard,
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/open_keyboard.jpg[/URL] after you lift this up slightly you can then proceed to slide the top part to the left and then pull it free
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/keyboard_2.jpg[/URL] [URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/keyboard.jpg[/URL] After you’ve done that now you need to unscrew the two screws at the top of the keyboard and then slide the whole keyboard towards the screen. This will allow you to lift it free, take care not to pull the keyboard too far, you don’t want the ribbon cable coming out.
Now that you’ve done this you will see a metal panel marked DDR on the left hand side, if you unscrew the two screws which hold the plate in place you can lift this panel free and expose the last memory slot.
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/ddr.jpg[/URL] After you’ve stuck the memory in
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/ram_shot.jpg[/URL] and then pushed it back till the catches lock you can close this panel again, getting the screws in can be a bit tricky if your screwdriver isn’t magnetized, so I stuck the head of the screw to a bit of blu-tac and then gave it a twist in the hole to get it in place.
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/blutac.jpg[/URL]
Now you can install the wireless adaptor if you decided to get one, simply stick it in the slot in the same way you inserted the RAM and then connect up the two wires (white goes to main, black to aux), it is important not to forget to connect the wires, otherwise your 100ft range will be reduce to about 5ft. With that all done you can now put the keyboard back and close it all up again.
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/prowireless.jpg[/URL]
Now you can install the hard drive, I was going to go with the Hitachi Travelstar 7k60 however I decided that the premium you have to pay on a drive like this wasn’t really worth the small performance gain over a normal 5400RPM drive, so instead I just decided to get an 80gb Hitachi Travelstar with 5400RPM spin speed and an 8MB cache. Buying this drive from a normal retailer will probably make your eyes water and your wallet groan, so once again I used good old ebay to get the drive at a reasonable price.
Again it’s up to you what drive you decide to go with, if you will rarely have very many files on your laptop you would save a bit of cash by opting for a smaller drive. But now we come to fitting it, this is a fairly straightforward part to fit, first you need to mount the drive in the supplied caddy and then you have to attach the IDE adaptor so that the 44 pins will fit into the array
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/hd_adaptor.jpg[/URL] When you have the hard drive secured
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/in_caddy.jpg[/URL] you can then put the rather snazzy looking cover on so that it doesn’t stand out like a sore thumb
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/hd_cover.jpg[/URL]
Now we need to fit the CPU, I ended up getting the Pentium m 735 from ebuyer with the idea in mind of overclocking it to the 755 speeds, however overclocking a laptop is a pain in the ass, but more on that later. On this laptop the CPU socket is on the underside, so unscrew the panel and then unscrew the heatpipe, here I had to remove the fan to get the heatpipe free. Now scrape away the thermal pad that comes on the heatpipe and apply arctic silver to the core, put the CPU in the slot making sure the corner with the golden triangle goes to the corner where one pin is missing on the socket and then tighten the screw on the socket by turning it around 180° clockwise then replace the heatpipe and screw in the four screws in an X fashion
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/cpu_shot.jpg[/URL] Fit your other stick of Ram at the same time if applicable.
Now just replace the cover and screw it on, charge up the battery (will take about 3-4 hours) and then power it up. If all goes well you should see the Pentium m splash screen
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/it_works.jpg[/URL] and then a prompt to organize boot order etc…
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/install_os.jpg[/URL] If however the laptop powers up for a few seconds, clicks and then turns off, then you haven’t securely tightened the locking screw on the CPU socket.
That’s pretty much it now, I haven’t really scratched the surface on overclocking the laptop yet because I’m not entirely sure how to do it yet, I think I will have to get the PLL number and use CPU COOL to modify it, but that is for another day at the moment.
Good luck, I’ve tried to be as detailed as possible, but if there is anything you don’t understand just ask.
I done this for a few reasons, I got it relatively cheap from eBay and also because I could actually get it shipped to this country (again because I used an eBay seller). The advantage with this notebook is that it can take the Dothan processors, a feature that I was keen to utilize more detailed specs can be found here
[URL]http://store.agearnotebooks.com/asusm3nspec.html[/URL]
However Asus do a wide variety of white books, the one that you go for is pretty much up to you, if you want to do some serious gaming you should probably go for one that has a mobility radeon chipset, if your gaming will consist of nothing much more testing that a few games of warcraft however a shared 64mb option should suffice. The M3 and M5 models are also the slimmest models, so are handy if your notebook really does have to be portable.
Now we have to kit out the notebook with the necessities to make it run. You will have to source a CPU, Hard Drive, RAM, Optical drive and if applicable a wireless card. The optical drives are a bit hard to get hold of because they are a little specialized for that particular laptop model; as such I just bought the laptop and optical drive together.
The RAM for my particular laptop is a 200 pin pc2700 SODIMM module, I decided to get 1GB of RAM for my laptop, especially as I had the onboard graphics to think about. So I started searching around various sites to find the best deal I could, I decided to go with 2 sticks of 512mb instead of a 1gb module because they are ridiculously expensive. In the end my search took me to [URL]www.stuff-uk.net[/URL] who have the Kingston branded modules I was looking for. I got both sticks for an incredibly reasonable £137.02 and that’s including VAT and postage.
To fit the first stick of RAM you only need to flip the laptop over and unscrew the right hand panel, the RAM slot is just underneath the CPU socket. The second slot is a little more tricky to get to, its under the keyboard. To get under the keyboard you have to take a flathead screwdriver and get it into the hollowed part of the black panel just above the keyboard,
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/open_keyboard.jpg[/URL] after you lift this up slightly you can then proceed to slide the top part to the left and then pull it free
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/keyboard_2.jpg[/URL] [URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/keyboard.jpg[/URL] After you’ve done that now you need to unscrew the two screws at the top of the keyboard and then slide the whole keyboard towards the screen. This will allow you to lift it free, take care not to pull the keyboard too far, you don’t want the ribbon cable coming out.
Now that you’ve done this you will see a metal panel marked DDR on the left hand side, if you unscrew the two screws which hold the plate in place you can lift this panel free and expose the last memory slot.
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/ddr.jpg[/URL] After you’ve stuck the memory in
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/ram_shot.jpg[/URL] and then pushed it back till the catches lock you can close this panel again, getting the screws in can be a bit tricky if your screwdriver isn’t magnetized, so I stuck the head of the screw to a bit of blu-tac and then gave it a twist in the hole to get it in place.
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/blutac.jpg[/URL]
Now you can install the wireless adaptor if you decided to get one, simply stick it in the slot in the same way you inserted the RAM and then connect up the two wires (white goes to main, black to aux), it is important not to forget to connect the wires, otherwise your 100ft range will be reduce to about 5ft. With that all done you can now put the keyboard back and close it all up again.
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/prowireless.jpg[/URL]
Now you can install the hard drive, I was going to go with the Hitachi Travelstar 7k60 however I decided that the premium you have to pay on a drive like this wasn’t really worth the small performance gain over a normal 5400RPM drive, so instead I just decided to get an 80gb Hitachi Travelstar with 5400RPM spin speed and an 8MB cache. Buying this drive from a normal retailer will probably make your eyes water and your wallet groan, so once again I used good old ebay to get the drive at a reasonable price.
Again it’s up to you what drive you decide to go with, if you will rarely have very many files on your laptop you would save a bit of cash by opting for a smaller drive. But now we come to fitting it, this is a fairly straightforward part to fit, first you need to mount the drive in the supplied caddy and then you have to attach the IDE adaptor so that the 44 pins will fit into the array
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/hd_adaptor.jpg[/URL] When you have the hard drive secured
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/in_caddy.jpg[/URL] you can then put the rather snazzy looking cover on so that it doesn’t stand out like a sore thumb
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/hd_cover.jpg[/URL]
Now we need to fit the CPU, I ended up getting the Pentium m 735 from ebuyer with the idea in mind of overclocking it to the 755 speeds, however overclocking a laptop is a pain in the ass, but more on that later. On this laptop the CPU socket is on the underside, so unscrew the panel and then unscrew the heatpipe, here I had to remove the fan to get the heatpipe free. Now scrape away the thermal pad that comes on the heatpipe and apply arctic silver to the core, put the CPU in the slot making sure the corner with the golden triangle goes to the corner where one pin is missing on the socket and then tighten the screw on the socket by turning it around 180° clockwise then replace the heatpipe and screw in the four screws in an X fashion
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/cpu_shot.jpg[/URL] Fit your other stick of Ram at the same time if applicable.
Now just replace the cover and screw it on, charge up the battery (will take about 3-4 hours) and then power it up. If all goes well you should see the Pentium m splash screen
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/it_works.jpg[/URL] and then a prompt to organize boot order etc…
[URL]http://img12.photobucket.com/albums/v31/morgoth/install_os.jpg[/URL] If however the laptop powers up for a few seconds, clicks and then turns off, then you haven’t securely tightened the locking screw on the CPU socket.
That’s pretty much it now, I haven’t really scratched the surface on overclocking the laptop yet because I’m not entirely sure how to do it yet, I think I will have to get the PLL number and use CPU COOL to modify it, but that is for another day at the moment.
Good luck, I’ve tried to be as detailed as possible, but if there is anything you don’t understand just ask.